Well look at that. One Yamaha R1 5PW fuel-injected 1000cc bike engine sitting under it's own support in the front of my Mini Cooper!!
Oh and whats that I see. An offset brake servo :-)
To say I'm happy with the progress made today (Sat 27/02/16) would be an under statement! I had reached a point where the fabrication of the engine cradle couldn't really continue until I had checked the position of the engine in the car. My MK2 cradle was built using the MK1 as a template but I hadn't actually tried it in the car until today.
I ordered some new poly mounts for the subframe so that the subframe position would be accurate. Having the subframe lean a few mm one way or another could have a series affect on the overall installation.
With the subframe mounted it was time to lift the engine into position. I cleared my garage, grabbed the funky purple lifting straps and got on with it.
It dropped straight where it needed to go without any issues. The engine mounts lined up perfectly with the subframe holes.
I popped the throttle bodies on the engine, lowered the crane and stuck the bonnet on...it fits! It turns out that it's the first time I have tried the bonnet with the engine and throttle bodies fitted. Luckily it isn't sitting too high so I won't have to alter the cradle again.
Happy with the engine position I decided to tackle a problem that had been bugging me for quite some time that wasn't possible until the engine was fitted.
Offset brake servo
I was in two minds whether to ditch the brake servo until I read somewhere that all vehicles factory fitted with a brake servo would fail the MOT if it wasn't present so I needed a way to retain the servo and overcome the problem with the new engine now occupying the space the servo needed to be.
My solution - offset the servo towards the inner wing.
I started by offering the servo up to see where it fouled on various parts of the engine bay. It was obvious that I would need to remove some of the triangle shaped gusset as well as cutting two of the mounting studs.
A bit of angle griding later I was able to get the servo into roughly the correct position. The only thing stopping it was the rear mounting point which was now too long.
I decided to cut the end off, remove approx 5mm of metal and weld it back up.
The end result is a brake servo that fits in almost the standard position. I still have room for the clutch master cylinder to mount it solves the MOT dilemma cheaply and relatively easily.
Still to do is to modify the brake pedal upright so that the clevis fork is angled towards the new position. I'm thinking I will cut the current item off, tap a thread on the shaft and use a threaded clevis fork with locknut.