How annoying. It turns out there isn't going to be enough space to easily mount the Eaton M45 supercharger I was planning on using so I change of plan was required which brings me to the Aisin AMR 500.
The above diagram shows how the various cooling components will be connected on my R1 installation. It consists of some ideas from the Pro-motive installation manual and my own interpretation of how to modify the R1 head outlet pipes in order to connect a heater matrix.
The main feature I've incorporated is re-configuring the head outlet pipes in a way that allows the heater matrix feed to occur before the thermostat. Much like the standard mini setup. The outlet from the heater matrix is fed back into the cooling system as per the Pro-motive manual.
The central instrument cluster on a classic mini and many classic cars utilize a mechanical voltage regulator (stabilizer) to provide a constant 10v to the instruments. Variance in the supply voltage will cause an internal bimetallic strip to change shape making the internal contacts connect or disconnect ensuring a constant 10v is supplied. Overtime the mechanical nature of the regulator can wear causing failure and an unreliable voltage output. The convenience and cheapness of modern electronics makes it possible to replace the mechanical regulator with a solid state unit i.e. no moving parts.
TIme for an overhaul
My original Arduino speedometer was created back in November 2015 and I was very pleased with it at the time. It received a lot of interest via this website and YouTube. However, the perfectionist in me was never happy with how the original version turned out, The construction was a bit hacked together and the code was far from elegant.
The mini shell being away for restoration for such a long time, fast approaching a year as I type, gave me the perfect opportunity to revisit some of my earlier work. It was time for an overhaul.
I am including everything here so you can create your own version of my speedometer. During my research I would often find examples of what I was trying to achieve that were lacking in detail or incomplete. I hope this resource proves useful to someone and saves you some time.
Everything offered here is to be used at your own risk. I do not accept responsibility for any mistakes I might have made that cause you to make the same mistakes.
If there is enough interest I would consider supplying the circuit boards and components in kits so you can create your own. Get in contact if interested.
What a place!
I visited a few weeks ago to attend a wedding. The plan was to see as much of the country as we could within the limited time frame of 10 days or so. My wife and I had 3 days booked in Tokyo so I thought it would be rude not to attend the legendary Mini Maruyama.
I will let the pictures do the talking.
A Thing of Beauty
A lot of progress has been made on the Supercharger conversion since my last update. All of the parts have been machined and the main casing has been treated to a lovely coat of Cerakote, my new favourite discovery.
Finished Badge in Cerakote
I've always been a big fan of MK1 minis and I particularly liked the early Morris mini bonnet badge shape. My custom badge started out as a Morris badge I purchased over 10 years ago from eBay. I was originally going to fit it as is but the condition wasn't perfect and the addition of a 3D printer to my tools has opened up lots of opportunities to customise.
The starting point
The majority of the running gear was brand new when it was fitted to the car. I had already painted it in black hammerite before fitting it and it hadn't covered any miles under it's own steam. The wear visible is from storage, jacking up and two house move on a car transporter.
This is the final version of my Arduino controlled gear position gauge. I've refined the design over the last couple of years to a point that I was happy to commit to having a printed circuit board manufactured.