I've been a little slack updating this website but progress has been made behind the scenes in a number of areas. I will keep this update brief and go into more detail in later posts.
The steering rack was in fairly good mechanical condition before the car came off the road so I didn't see any great need to replace it. It did however need a fresh coat of paint. Upon closer inspection it also needed at least one new rubber boot.
Quite a lot of work has been carried out on the hanger since my last update. The initial design wasn't working out that well due to the top rose joint allowing the whole assembly to pivot upwards affecting the chain tension.
The next few pictures will show the evolution of what I hope to be the final solution. The real test will be installing everything in the car but so far it's working out well.
The original idea
No I am not going to be writing about the UK mobile phone operator! I am turning my attention to the R1 engine breathing requirements.
A number of BECs (Bike Engine Cars) use sausage filters, socks or unfiltered trumpets.
Sticking with my theory that I probably can't design things better than Yamaha manged and the fact that the engine would of used an airbox whilst in the bike, I thought I would stick with the same idea and use an airbox.
Using an airbox will have the added benefit of reducing the induction noise and it will allow me to direct cool air into the throttle bodies rather than picking up warm air from the engine bay.
The question is what sort of airbox, what size and what size airduct ?
Although I am still quite a way off from installing the engine in the car and subsequently plumbing in the cooling system, I have started to think about how I might approach it so that I do all the required fabrication before I paint the engine bay or powder coat the engine frame.
Managed to get some more done on the cradle on Sunday. I tackled the lower engine mount cross-member and mounts.
It was tricky to get all the angles accurate as whilst ensuring it lined up with the engine mount holes due to all the different angles at it each contact point.
Chain clearance is good and bottom rad hose is clear.
Saturday - 24/01/15
I spent the majority of the day rolling around under the car disconnecting the gear linkage, engine mounts and exhaust ready to lift out the MPI engine.
I purchased some 1-ton lifting straps from Toolstation that made light work of attaching around the engine. I have previously used a metal bracket bolted to the head studs but the straps were much better and could easily be positioned.
Getting the engine out wasn't too bad. The worse part was disconnecting the drive shafts which I decided to do by keeping the pot joints intact and I levered them out of the gearbox as soon as the engine was high enough.
Once the engine was clear of the car I was able to drop it down onto the floor.